"Even a slightly different hole size from what the manufacturer recommends can cause the anchor to pull loose."įinally, drive home your mounting screws. He is the building carpenter in the Hearst Tower, where PM is located, and has installed thousands of wall anchors all over New York City. "Whatever you do, bore the right-size hole for the anchor, and that's whatever the manufacturer recommends," New York carpenter Bob Lucchesi says. Depending on size, one of those can carry up to 300 pounds, but the mounting hole they require ranges from ½ to ¼ inch, as opposed to 3/16 inch for the AF5. If not, you can always move up to the company's unique toggle-bolt anchor, a product that's far easier to use than the standard variation. That should be more than sufficient for a shelf or small cabinet. Each AF5 supports up to 79 pounds when used on tile mounted to ½-inch drywall. The AF5 anchor (shown in the photo on the previous page) is made of polypropylene plastic that expands around the fastener and the back of the wall surface as the screw is driven into it, almost as if you had molded the screw in place with a high-strength plastic. My preferred anchor is made by Toggler (). Now tap the appropriate hollow anchor into the wall. Boschs new bits have a small flute that ejects debris from the hole better than the spear-point. Boschs new glass-and-tile bit (bottom about $17 for a four-piece set) is more robustly built to resist breakage and wear when drilling through tile and into plaster and lath.The traditional spear-point bit lacks any means to clear debris from the drill hole. The spear-point glass-and-tile bit (top) is fine for most jobs, such as tile over ½-inch drywall. It's murderously abrasive and can easily scratch a wood floor. ![]() Peel away the tape, and wipe up any tile dust before it gets tracked all over the house. Wipe the tile bit clean, and bore the next mounting hole. Some older types of plaster and lath are all but impossible to drill through with anything other than a masonry bit. Note that there are some substrates that will require you to switch to a masonry bit after you've drilled through the tile. Bore all the way through the substrate to which the tile is mounted. Start slowly as the bit cuts into the glazed surface pick up speed as you cut through the tile. Next, bore the holes using a high-quality glass-and-tile bit (see "Choosing a Tile Bit," below). Using a felt-tip pen and a level, mark the exact position of the mounting holes on the tape, and double-check the position of whatever you're mounting by holding it in place. The tape reduces the likelihood of the tile bit moving off the location (known as walking). First, stick a couple of pieces of painter's masking tape on the tiles to mark the desired location of the mounting holes. For all other applications, here's what to do. ![]() And though some hollow wall fasteners are rated for grab-bar installation, your best bet there is to mount to a stud or solid-wood blocking mounted between the studs. ![]() You risk creating a leak through the wall. By the way, we're not talking about mounting objects to walls that see constant water exposure. You have to put these items in a practical location and where they look best. Bathrooms are relatively small spaces, and there's not much leeway for positioning a shelf, wall cabinet, or towel bar. The fact is you almost always have to use a hollow wall anchor with these installations. Now, the voice of reality: If only it were that easy. The gold standard for hanging something on a tile wall is to catch a stud with each mounting screw. ![]() Media Platforms Design Team What's the best way to fasten to a tile wall? I have a loose shelf in the bathroom that I want to replace, and I don't want the new one to come away from the wall like the old one did.
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